11. Trigg-o-nometry

Wednesday, 17th December, 2014

Hillarys, Perth, WA

Surfing.......sometimes it's quite depressing, frustrating and just ahhhhhh!

After a few days in the sea I'm finally, sort of, comfortable with the fact that there are sharks about. 

It's the surfers that are the problem or rather my own surfing. The trouble with paddling out to a point is that the take off zone is limited, the waves are few and the crowds, especially in a city break during the summer/Christmas holidays are quite big. Not to mention that everyone seems to rip, even the mini-groms. 

As with every break there is a pecking order and Trigg is no different. There seems to be a core of more mature surfers that hold the top table. Everyone else takes the crumbs that are left. Amongst these mere mortals I sit, respectful of the order whilst longing to get up there and catch a few backhand peelers.

If I was of a more forceful nature I would sit up there and wait my turn. I could even sit inside and pick off a few smaller ones. It's only been head high or so but it's a quick take off which is fast, and at times hollow. The wave sections too which is where everyone else sits, peppered along the reef in ever shallower sections that for the most part close out. Or that's what I seem to catch.

Confidence is key. My confidence is weakened by crowds anyhow. I hate hassling for waves. It doesn't help when you nearly spear one of those sitting at the top table. In times it would have been, "Off with his head..." but hey ho. We all fall off, especially when trying to surf to new wave. 

I know what I need to do. Get on it early and by early I mean up at 4, cycle down and paddle out before every other gets out there. I'm down there at 6 anyway but this is Australia, so it's super crowded early doors. The only trouble with super early is the threat of them damn sharks.

10. Trigg-o-nometry

Tuesday, 9th December, 2014

Hillarys, Perth, WA

So I started reading "The Cloud of Unknowing" but from the start I have a predicament, not really believing in God undermines a fundamental element of the book.

The book claims to be "a rainmaker for anyone whose soul has ever felt as dry as a bone".

Essentially, the book seems to be about contemplative prayer, whether you need to believe, I'm not sure.

The first part, the "cloud of unknowing" relates to spiritual exercises.

The second part, the "cloud of forgetting", to prayer without ceasing.

I am, by all accounts about to have a dialogue with Mystery.

For contemplation I am in need of only one thing, a naked intent.

What Anonymous does say about God I quite like; "He can be loved, but not thought".

I do wonder why He has to be a He though. If He cannot be thought then He could just as easily by a She or neither.

If neither then the Tao suits.

For contemplative prayer I am in need of one thing, a kind of spiritual amnesia.

For this I must forget about everything created. Hide everything in existence under the cloud of forgetting.

The first piece of practical advice is to "focus our scattered minds on one small word and try to hold onto it". This word is of one syllable. Fix it to your heart. Fasten it in your mind.

I have fixed my word for a day or so now and I have to say its surprising.

For Anonymous contemplation on one word reconnects us to God.

I use the term God in the loosest sense, as far away from Christianity or any other organised religious doctrination as possible.The Tao would probably define it better.

For me, the term God is loaded with connotations that have a direct correlation to the Christian fait h and I cannot believe in it. People have justified to much in the name of God. I have an open mind but the associations between God and religion are too strong. From this sense I should replace the word God with something else and I was going to use the term Tao but the book is a Christian text and not an Eastern philosophy so I use the term God with caution but also with respect to Anonymous.

The Tao signifies the way, it is everything and nothing which is why it seems to have a direct relationship with the term God.

In relation to my original point it seems Anonymous is wary of my sincerity too, and rightly so, for they ask no-one to read, quote or copy any of the text without a sincere intention to follow Christ.

I am sincere but whether that sincerity will lead to Christ I am unsure.

To contextualise, this book was believed to have been written in the last half of the fourteenth century. The secularisation of Western society, I feel, adds weight to my continued reading of this book. Who knows where it will lead.

In reading the first chapter I wonder whether it is possible to remove or replace the religious rhetoric with a more secular vision?

To be spiritual do we really need to be Christian, and if yes, does that mean those who follow other religious faiths are less spiritual?

I'm not sure I even know what it means to be spiritual.

On this journey I can relate to the first stages of Anonymous' four stages of maturity.

First is Ordinary

Many live the ordinary life out in the world and it could be said we often get lost. to Christians this is the path of Adam, the bite of the apple, sin. To most it's simple fun but fun can lead you down a path which is not conducive to proper behaviour.

The second is Special

Special is almost like recognising the first level and growing to a more reflective life.

9. Trigg-o-nometry

Tuesday, 9th December, 2014

Hillarys, Perth, WA

Clean, waist to shoulder high waves this morning. It was a roll of the dice.

Came home, quick munch, coffee and the wind's come up.

This is such an expanse of coastline and it is so susceptible to the wind especially with The Doctor.

8. Trigg-o-nometry

Tuesday, 9th, December, 2014

Hillarys, Perth, WA

Woke up this morning at five to no wind. Torn between taking my board or my camera, I gambled and cycled out with my camera.

7. Trigg-o-nometry

Monday, 8th December, 2014

Hillarys, Perth, WA

The surf's picked up, as has the on-shore winds.

6. Trigg-o-nometry

Sunday, 7th December, 2014

Hillarys, Perth, WA

The dawn chorus is a true symphony of exotic noise. Cut through by the throaty meat of a bike or the rumble of a ut's V8.

The beaches are very clean, or seem to be. The lifestyle is very clean, or seems to be. Australia is very clean, or seems to be.

Money exudes itself throughout the West Coast Highway.

5. Trigg-o-nometry

Saturday, 6th December, 2014

Hillarys, Perth, WA

Woke up to a bright Azure blue sky.

The feel of heat.

Bliss

It's not all sweets and sugar though. There is the traffic. It's not necessarily close but it is there. Lying in bed it cuts through the silence.