Sunday, 22 April 2012

Thursday, 5 April 2012

All Hail The Mona Lisa




                             Fig 1 Hooper C “Mona Lisa, Musee du Louvre” March 2012


For Cher Krause Knight Walt Disney World, in Florida is very much a place for contemporary forms of worship situated within what she describes as a modern Westernized consumer culture. A similar site that could be said to fit such a notion is the Musee du Louvre, Paris, France. For pilgrims visiting both sites a shared reverence is felt for both the architectural surroundings and the objects within, objects that are held up as shrines in the modern age, secular shrines. (Fig 2) Whilst the goals of the pilgrims may vary, they also, as Knight posits, overlap as all seek some form of entertainment and celebration.


                      Fig 2 King M “Musee du Louvre, Paris” March 2012

As a pilgrim to Paris, France both Caroline and I engage in what the British cultural anthropologist Victor Turner (1920-83) described as a communitas, an unstructured community in which individuals are deemed equal. Communitas are formed, as Knight sets out, by individuals of different cultures who share, temporarily a common set of norms and values. Communitas are characteristic of people that are simultaneously experiencing liminality. (Ref: You Smell Like A Monkey, and You Look Like One Too)

                                          Fig 3 Hooper C “Eurostar Lounge, St Pancras Station, London” March 2012

The ritualistic qualities that go with these communitas are expressed in visiting such places as the Musee du Louvre and include what scholars have identified as specific rules of conduct, something which Caroline failed to adhere to in the Weiwei exhibition (Ref: You Smell Like A Monkey, and You Look Like One Too) and scheduled activities.

As Knight posits, the notion of a pilgrimage within the modern age has changed.  Ease of travel has helped pilgrimages become more curiosity-seeking rather than devotional and as the authenticity of religious relics began to be questioned the tradition of undergoing a religious pilgrimage began to lose its authority. Devotion, it seems has been superseded by play, yet as Turner sets out, the pilgrimage from its beginning was always a combination of both, devotion and play. Pilgrims open to corruption and temptations were free from the social constraints of their community.  (Fig 3, 4 and 8) Visiting secular sites en route, pilgrims, as Knight sets out would often get drunk, be gluttonous and engage in casual sex, as well as be involved in other behaviours that were consider sinful. Play, for Knight, especially when it is organized and made into routine is as ritualistically charged as worship.

    Fig 4 King M “Somewhere between London and Paris, Eurostar” March 2012

As with Walt Disney World the Musee du Louvre is, I believe, a place that can be considered sacred when placed in context of what Knight describes as an increasingly secularized culture. The pilgrims visiting both sites move through the respective spaces in what is considered a ritualistic procession, consuming shrine-like structures. Also both spaces uphold what she defines as cultural myths as well as displaying universally recognized figures. For Disney the figure is Mickey Mouse, for the Musee du Louvre I would posit Leonardo da Vinci’s “Mona Lisa” (c. 1503-1519) (Fig1) 

  Whilst Knight holds Cinderella’s Castle as the spiritual and physical heart of Walt Disney World, I would cite the “Mona Lisa” as the Musee du Louvre’s. As Caroline and I entered the museum Caroline, who had been to the Louvre before suggested we “get her out of the way”.

 March 15th 2012

She sits there with her arms casually folded resting on the arm of a chair smugly staring out from behind a pane of protective glass. Her eyes seem to follow you wherever you stand. She’s the bomb and she knows it. (Fig 1)

More venerable than a Vermeer, van Eyck and the “Venus de Milo”, (Fig 5) da Vinci’s “Mona Lisa” is the one the pilgrims flock to see.  Her importance seems to reign supreme. Her gaze meets you from a distance as you stroll down the grandiose corridor lined with immense and breath-taking works of art past the entrance to the chamber she resides in. She stops you in your tracks and you walk back to the open doorway of the room thinking, “there she is”.

                     Fig 5 King M “Venus de Milo, Musee du Louvre” March 2012

How does the “Mona Lisa” hold so much reverence over the rest of the exhibits in the museum? Is it simply down to branding or is she actually the most important and expensive object within this extravagant and opulent building? Personally, she doesn’t do it for me but maybe that is because I have to stand here as if I’m in a football match trying to see over everyone else’s head and phone camera. (Fig 6) It’s like walking around a Banksy exhibition; everyone wants to take a piece home with them condensed onto their mobile phone, in what Knight describes as  a souvenir that functions as a sacred trace; advertising the site, highlighting completion of the pilgrimage and providing physical proof of what I would consider to be a contemporary deity. With everyone vying to take the best photograph they can the pilgrims witness the magnificence that has been put onto the “Mona Lisa” from back behind the rope, behind the wood, behind the glass. (Fig 7) The power, the emotion of art doesn’t lie in a grabbed image through a telephone screen but in what the Indian aesthetician Abhinavagupta (950-1020 C.E) described as the transformative experience it can convey. For me this experience does not transcend through the “Mona Lisa” but was felt through the reduced light that fell on “The Execution of Lady Jane Grey” (1833), a painting by Paul Delaroche (1797-1856).

    Fig 6 King M “Mona Lisa, Musee du Louvre” March 2012

If the “Mona Lisa” can be considered to be a modern day deity could she also be considered to be an idol, what Perlmutter terms a postmodern idol? Standing in her presence seems to convey such a notion? Although the “Mona Lisa” is not an image of a god or goddess she does seem to be an object that draws excessive admiration and even devotion. In the past she has also been deemed an object of iconoclasm through acts of vandalism, hence her protective shield of glass and space.

    Fig 7 King M “View from the Mona Lisa, Musee du Louvre” March 2012

For Permutter, the notion of an idol within scriptural language is defined as objects that are considered to be false gods worshipped by so-called pagans. As she sets out, etymologically, idolatry refers to the adoration of images and is defined through the worship of imagery or idols and the power that they represent. Could it be said that the power the “Mona Lisa” represents is signified through the form of money? Is money the contemporary form of power that aligns itself with idolatry and worship?

In modern Western society what is considered sacred is not religious idolatry. That was subjugated through the second commandment by the Judaic-Christian concept of idolatry. “Thou shalt have no other gods before Me. Thou shalt not make unto thee a graven image…Thou shalt not bow down unto them, nor serve them.” What is deemed sacred changes throughout history; in the industrial age, science was considered the new god, and as Perlmutter sets out, society then placed its faith onto technological advances. As capitalism grew, Western society became more preoccupied with commodities, property and money as a contemporary form of idol worship.

In a postmodern age art is seen as a reaction against the separation of individuals from their community and against the formal aesthetics of modernism, as Perlmutter sets out, in questioning “the meaning, purpose, and function of art in relation to society, postmodern artists are attempting to reintegrate art into the life of the community”. (Perlmutter and Koppman. 1999. p. 10) For Perlmutter, one identifying characteristic of postmodernism is the questioning of art to a society that is both capitalist and commodity-producing. Postmodern artists such as Jeff Koons and Haim Steinbach are for Perlmutter creating works that mock Westernized capitalist culture. The artworks made up of recently bought consumer objects are referred to as “product art” and “object/commodity sculpture” and are considered to be meaningless objects, ad absurdum.  

Precisely because the “Mona Lisa” isn’t a depiction of a god or goddess or any other religious icon that relates to any particular faith she is able to transcend religious boundaries and so I feel can become an object that relates to all pilgrims engaged in what Turner described as communitas.

    Fig 8 King M “Eurostar Lounge, Paris” March 2012


For de Botton museums, like universities fill the gap in our secular society left by the diminishing faith of religion, giving us meaning without superstition. Visiting museums and galleries has many associations with stepping into a church. Pilgrims flock to see the architecture, its silence seduces us into contemplation, and the wealthy donate in what de Botton relates to a cleansing of financial sins. We also experience feelings that we may be  communing with something bigger than ourselves whilst simultaneously being separated from the profane. However, like the teaching of culture in universities, museums also have some faults. As de Botton posits they relinquish much of their potential in their handling of the art that has been entrusted to them. We are exposed to art, art which is of significant importance but museums appear to be powerless in adequately relating these objects to our inner needs, our soul. Why is this art important, why does art matter? Museums believe art should matter because it is important. Such a tautological answer as de Botton highlights does not answer the question.

It is because of such an answer that we visit museums and galleries. What must we do when we are in such magnificent surroundings as the Musee du Louvre? What we should not do is treat the objects within religiously especially if that is their origin. Pilgrims should in no way get on their knees before once-sacred objects and pray, weep and beg for forgiveness, reassurance and guidance.

In denigrating sacred objects as dead artifacts and subsequently condemning them to anthropological museums Perlmutter believes that Western culture has reinforced the suppression of the spiritual in art by deliberately secularizing religious objects from their cultural significance. Once an object is placed in a museum or gallery for exhibition it then loses its spiritual quality. The spiritual qualities of an object only exist if an individual or a community pays homage to it, consecrates it or endows it. For Permutter Western culture, albeit unconsciously continues to reinforce the dogma of the second commandment in perceiving other cultures statues as simple wood and stone.  

            Three days after France’s severance from the Catholic Church in 1792 the Palais du Lourve became France’s first national museum. The galleries of the Louvre quickly became filled with objects looted from French Catholic churches and the monasteries and chapels of Europe as a result of Napoleon’s campaigns.

  In 1789 the Virgin and Child, (c1324) a statuette was appropriated or stolen from the Abbey of Saint-Denis. For over 400 hundred years people had knelt in front of the virgin to draw strength from Mary’s compassion and her serenity. However, as de Botton points out rather than pray to such a religious object it’s caption and catalogue entry infer that pilgrims should understand what is before them; the piece is the earliest dated French example of the translucent basse-taille enamelwork first developed by Tuscan craftsmen in the late 13th century, it is made of gilded silver typical of Parisian metalwork fabricated in the first half of the 14th century, in Mary’s right hand is a crystal fleur-de-lis and the figures overall shape is drawn from a Byzantine model entitled the Virgin of Tenderness.

 Our pilgrimage to museums such as the Musee du Louvre appears more about collecting facts than anything else. An expert in art knows a great deal about art; where it was made, who commissioned it, where the artist’s parents came from, what influences were they under and so forth. As an example of museums faults De Botton refers to such establishments as storehouses of "concrete information” and when presented in this way art can soon become less interesting as a walk around the Louvre or the British Museum could confirm. (De Botton. 2012. p. 213)

An example of this indifference is illustrated through the work of German photographer Thomas Struth (b. 1954). In 1989 Struth began making “Museum Photographs” later moving on to churches and significant secular sites. The photographs show tourists, pilgrims to the sites making there way around the museums. As de Botton points out it becomes clear that the visitors are unable to take much sustenance from their surroundings. Consulting their catalogues people stand before Annunciations and Crucifixions consuming the information whilst “crimson blood trickles down the muscular leg of the son of God or a dove hovers in a cerulean sky”. (De Botton. 2012. p.215) The lightning bolt that people expect through looking at art never seems to materialize.   

Fig 9 Thomas Struth “Museum Photographs”

From a secular point of view art also seems confusing. Although most of us would never ask but what does it mean? Most of the time we are left untold, we have to read the piece and take what we may, text on walls is left to a minimum and the catalogues are often written in an enigmatic style.

Fig 10 F Banner “Every Word Unmade” 2007

In Christianity art, as de Botton highlights is a medium to remind us about what matters, guiding us forcibly about we have to love and to be grateful for, and what we should be afraid of.

 In asking the question If You’re Not Religious, Is Nothing Sacred? Vernon acknowledges the popularity of the Mona Lisa claiming it to be the most famous painting in the world. Yet its fame was or was at least reinforced by its theft in 1911 by Vincenzo Peruggia. It is reported that more people visited the empty space left behind by the painting the year after it was stolen than the previous year. As Vernon states people woke up to what was lost and the absence of the painting asserted its status. The notion of absence and presence has been explored by artists such as the surrealist Magritte (1898-1967).

            After its disappearance the image of the Mona Lisa was then mass-produced and copies began to appear on hotel walls and in people’s living spaces. For Vernon people wanted to share in the magic, a magic that Sontag attributes to taking ownership or gaining control over the subject. As E. H. Gombrich observed, in primitive societies the distinction between the real thing and the image was seen as two physically distinct, that is different, manifestations of the same spirit or energy. Could the magic extending from the mass-produced image relate to the real thing (the person) or to what seems more credible, the original image painted by Da Vinci? To my mind the mass-produced image and the link to Gombrich’s observations reinforces Sontag’s belief that reality is being usurped by imagery. As Sontag sets out, whilst the painting can be seen as an interpretation of the real, the photograph or mass-produced image is an indexical trace directly taken from the real although in this case the mass-produced image is a copy of a copy. People thought they had obtained a trace of the original painting through the mass-produced image rather than the real thing, the person.

            Sontag’s discourse in replacing reality with the photographic image has been illustrated throughout photography’s history:

            I long to have such a memorial of every being dear to me in the world. It is not merely the likeness which is precious in such cases-but the association and the sense of nearness involved in the thing…the fact of the very shadow of the person lying there fixed forever! It is the very sanctification of portraits I think-and it is not at all monstrous in me to say, what my brothers cry out against so vehemently, that I would rather have such a memorial of one I dearly loved, than the noblest artist’s work ever produced.
                                                      - Elizabeth Barrett (1843, letter to Mary Russell Mitford)
           
 Now, for an absurdly small sum, we may become familiar not only with every famous locality in the world, but also with almost every man of note in Europe. The ubiquity of the photographer is something wonderful. All of us have seen the Alps and know Chamonix and the Mer de Glace by heart, though we have never braved the horrors of the Channel…We have crossed the Andes, ascended Tenerife, entered Japan, “done” Niagara and the Thousand Isles, drunk delight of battle with our peers (at shop windows), sat at the councils of the mighty, grown familiar with kings, emperors and queens, prima donnas, pets of the ballet, and “well graced actors.” Ghosts have we seen and have not trembled, stood before royalty and have not uncovered, and looked, in short, through a three-inch lens at every single pomp and vanity of this wicked but beautiful world.
- “D. P.”, columnist in Once a Week (London), June 1, 1861

The creations of man or nature never have more grandeur than in an Ansel Adams photograph, and his image can seize the viewer with more force than the natural object from which it was made.
- advertisement for a book of photographs by Adams (1974)

Life itself is not the reality. We are the ones who put life into stones and pebbles.
                                                                                   - Frederick Sommer 
      
           
            (All extracts taken from Sontag 2002)

It is in the context of this theft that Vernon relates the painting to the sacred, associating the term to the Mona Lisa being “a one-off” that carries the hallmark of genius”; brushed by “Leonardo’s own hand” the painting has “intrinsic value”. (Vernon. 2012. P87) Are these elements properties of the sacred or is the sacred something else? For instance can something be deemed sacred if once gone is irreplaceable, or as in the case of the Mona Lisa once rediscovered it is sacred because it is the original and cannot be replaced? 


Having owned a reproduction of the Mona Lisa shortly after its theft is as though the owner looks at it and thinks, I know it is not in the Louvre because I have it, I own it. But on seeing a reproduction a pilgrimage is made to see what Berger calls the original of the reproduction. The paintings primary meaning no longer relates to what it says but what it is. What the image shows is no longer its unique property. The unique existence of the Mona Lisa like other works of art are evaluated and defined today as Berger posits objects whose value depends on how rare they are.

The value of a work of art is gauged and affirmed by its price on the market. This price, Berger states is a reflection of its spiritual value, a value that reflects art being deemed greater than commerce. The spiritual value of an object, as distinct from an example or a message, is explained in terms of either religion or magic.

However, as Berger posits in modern Western society neither religion nor magic are deemed a living force and so a work of art such as the Mona Lisa is shrouded in an atmosphere of false religiosity. Discussed and presented as holy relics which for Perlmutter are denied any sacred value once placed in a museum or gallery, a work of art is first and foremost evidence of its own survival. The past in which the piece originated is studied in order to prove its survival genuine. A piece is declared art when its line of descent can be certified.

Such a notion, I feel, reinforces de Botton’s claim in relation to collecting facts as the statuette of the Virgin and Child, (c1324) illustrates.  As a pilgrim or a visitor we are exposed to art which is of significant importance but in relating works of art to our inner needs, our soul museums appear to be powerless. Catalogue entries, as Berger and de Botton state explain who commissioned the work, who owned it etcetera but the reason why such extensive research is carried out is to prove that it is genuine and unique.

Much like da Vinci’s The Virgin and Child with St Anna and St John the Baptist (c. 1499–1500 or c. 1506–8) became famous because an American wanted to buy it for £2,500,000.00 the Mona Lisa acquired a new level of impressiveness through its theft. The painting lies in situ more prominent than before not, it could be said because of its meaning but because of its market value.

The false religiosity that surrounds original works of art and which is ultimately dependent upon their market value has, for Berger became a substitute for what paintings lost when the camera reproduced it into mass-produced imagery. Its function developed into a form of nostalgia and if a painting such as the Mona Lisa is no longer unique and exclusive then it must be made mysteriously so. The mystification of art Berger believes enables a privileged minority to invent a history that retrospectively justifies the role of the ruling classes, a notion that goes some way in reinforcing Perlmutter’s belief that the subjugation of the spiritual in art fortifies a predominantly male political-religious structure.   

What is the meaning of the Mona Lisa? To me it still seems shrouded in mystery. What did I expect on viewing such a prestigious work of art? I saw the original painting and on reflection I am unsure. All I remember is the crowds, and the cameras. In contrast to a painting that I hadn’t been aware of or seen as a reproduction, namely the “The Execution of Lady Jane Grey” (1833), by Paul Delaroche (1797-1856) my feelings were decidedly different.

            What we make of a painting when we experience it as an original depends, for Berger upon what we expect from art, and that, he claims depends upon how we have experienced the meanings of paintings through reproductions.

For Berger the modern means of reproduction has destroyed the authority of art and removed it from the preserve of the ruling classes, a preserve that was a social one. The physical preserve of which was set apart in their palaces and their houses. Originally art, as Gombrich observed was experienced as ritual and existed in the preserve of the sacred and magical. The separation of art from life, Berger posits enabled the subject to exercise power over it, a power that Sontag discusses as a form of ownership or gaining control. The physical preserve of such ritualistic art was a cave or later the building it was made for. Throughout history the authority of art was, As Berger highlights inseparable from the particular authority of the preserve.

So if we follow Berger’s argument where does the preserve of art lie today? Images of art today Berger believes are removed from any preserve and have become ubiquitous, valueless, insubstantial, ephemeral, available and free. Reproductions have entered the mainstream of life and as such as themselves hold no power. However, it could be said that photographic images that are deemed original but are ultimately still reproductions still command extraordinary prices in today’s market as Andreas Gursky’s Rhein II (1999) illustrate. Does such imagery support Berger’s notion of the mysterious?

The process of reproduction, for Berger is used to promote the illusion that nothing has changed as reproductions allow the masses to appreciate art as the cultured minority once did. However, what Berger terms the new language of imagery could be used as a means of giving meaning to our lives and as a way of “trying to understand the history of which we can become the active agents”. (Berger. 1977. P. 33)   

 An example of Berger’s spiritual value wrapped up in bogus religiosity and magic is, to my mind, exemplified by descriptions such as the philosopher Roger Scruton’s when he writes:

It conveys the highest gentleness to which a human being can attain – a gentleness almost divine. Mona Lisa looks into the heart of the viewer in something like the way Christos Pantokrator looks into the soul of the one who worships him. The image fascinates us because it steps out of our world…

Feelings akin to this are certainly not evoked through a copy of the copy and maybe if I was able to stand alone with her I might feel different but in elbowing my way to the front I only feel stress. It seems that it is almost not about the painting or the reproduction but the situation by which you view the work. A darkened solitary room seems more conducive to feelings akin to what the Indian aesthetician Abhinavagupta (950-1020 C.E) described as a transformative experience rather than the lit, busy, stressful environment of the Mona Lisa.

Does the Mona Lisa hold sacred attributes or are they imposed on to her? As the poster girl for the Louvre the painting is certainly revered as the Holy of Holies and her position within the museum certainly reinforces Vernon’s notion that the viewer approaches with an air of humility, an attitude of worship.

Held as an icon I wonder if people would flock to view her as a photograph. Sontag might believe so because in surmising a similar hypothetical scenario she believes a photograph of Shakespeare would be akin to “having a nail from the True Cross”. (Sontag. 2002. P. 54)

In 1919 one such mass-produced reproduction of the Mona Lisa was, as Scruton describes, desecrated by the French artist Marcel Duchamp (1887-1968) by adorning her face with a beard and moustache entitling the readymade "Elle a chaud au cul" (She Has A Hot Arse). Yet as Scruton posits, to be desecrated the object has to be consecrated, consecrated by human feelings. Such a view seems to conflict with Perlmutter’s notion that the placing of sacred religious objects within museums neutralizes them of their spiritual qualities thus reinforcing the view that Western culture has continued to suppress the spiritual in art through the deliberate secularization of religious objects from other cultures. Yet it seems that objects such as the Mona Lisa are becoming sacred in secular terms thus reinforcing both Sontag and Gombrich. To use the phrase desecration means that the Mona Lisa has been seen as being an object with sacred values.
                  
                
Bibliography

 De Botton A, 2012 Religion For Atheists Penguin London: UK
Perlmutter D and Koppman D, 1999 Reclaiming the Spiritual in Art: Contemporary Cross-cultural Perspectives Albany: State University of New York Press
Sontag S, 2002 On Photography Penguin Group: London
Vernon M, 2012 God: The Big Questions Quercus: London

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Tuesday, 20 March 2012

....You Look Like A Monkey and You Smell Like One Too



Paris My 40th Birthday


In her essay Mickey, Minnie and Mecca; Destination Disney World, Pilgrimage in the Twentieth Century Cher Krause Knight declared that all pilgrimages, whether secular or ecclesiastical share the basic component of a journey, that of achieving a specific goal. Always spiritual and usually physical most pilgrimages are said to be centripetal, a journey that tends to move towards a centre. Such a notion Knight states conforms to French ethnographer and folklorist Arnold van Gennap’s (1873-1957) tripartite model concerning the rites of passage; separation from the home community, transition or liminality, and reincorporation into society. For Knight Walt Disney World, a place where “time and space are collapsed in eternal, freeze-dried (much like Walt Disney is reputed to be himself) images of American culture” should be included among the secular pilgrimages of the twentieth century. Other sites include Lenin’s tomb, the Vietnam War Memorial and Elvis Presley’s Graceland.  

      Fig 1 M King “Caroline, Master of Ceremonies, Paris” March 2012  

The term liminal derives from a Latin word meaning “a threshold”. Liminality refers to a conscious or unconscious psychological, neurological or metaphysical subjective state, of being on the “threshold” of or between two different existential planes, as defined in neurological psychology, as a liminal state and through the anthropological theories of ritual by van Gennap and British cultural anthropologist Victor Turner (1920-83).

Developed by van Gennap and later by the Turner, the term liminality is used to “refer to in-between situations and conditions that are characterized by the dislocation of established structures, the reversal of hierarchies, and uncertainty regarding the continuity of tradition and future outcomes”. (Horvath et al, 2009)

In 1909 van Gennap published his Rites de Passage, a work that is considered essential to the development of his concept relating to liminality in the context of rituals in small scale societies. In identifying various categories of rites van Gennap distinguished between those that signify transitions in the passage of time and those that result in a change of status. Van Gennap placed a particular emphasis on rites of passage and claimed that “such rituals marking, helping, or celebrating individual or collective passages through the cycle of life or of nature exist in every culture, and share a specific three-fold sequential structure”. (Szakolczai A, 2009 p. 141)

Van Gennap’s three fold structure consisted of
·        Pre-liminal rites (or rites of separation)
·        Liminal rites (or transition rites)
·        Postliminal rites (or rites of incorporation)

Pre-liminal Rites
The initial stage of pre-liminal rites or rites of separation involves a metaphorical “death”. The participant is forced to leave something behind by breaking with previous routines and practices.

Liminal Rites
 These rites involve the creation of a tabula rasa, a blank state, through the removal of limits and forms which were previously taken for granted. These rites consist of two essential characteristics.
·        The rite must abide by an arranged sequence, where everybody knows what they are to do and how.
·        Everything must be done under the authority of a master of ceremonies.

The destructive nature of this rite allows for considerable changes to be made to the
participant’s identity. This is the stage where transition takes place implying a passing through the threshold that distinguishes between two phases which is characterized by the term liminality.

Post-liminal Rites
During this stage the participant is re-incorporated back into society with a new identity, in affect they are a new being. Van Gennap believed his tripartite sequence; inherent in all ritual passages was one of universality.

An anthropological ritual, especially a rite of passage such as my 40th birthday was said
by Turner to involve some change to my self. In the first phase, that of separation, some kind of symbolic behavior signifies my detachment from an earlier fixed point within my social structure. My status becomes liminal and through this situation I live outside my normal environment, questioning my self and “the existing social order through a series of rituals that often involve acts of pain: the initiants come to feel nameless, spatio-temporally dislocated and socially unstructured”. These liminal periods are deemed both destructive and constructive meaning that “the formative experiences during liminality will prepare the initiand (and his/her cohort) to occupy a new social role or status, made public during the reintegration rituals”. (Thomassen B, 2006 p. 322)

Through his work Turner became more aware that liminality “...served not only to
identify the importance of in-between periods, but also to understand the human reactions to liminal experiences: the way liminality shaped personality, the sudden foregrounding of agency, and the sometimes dramatic tying together of thought and experience”. (Thomassen B, 2006 p. 322)  

                       Turner believed the qualities of liminality are necessarily ambiguous and through such rituals as the rites of passage, the participant’s sense of identity becomes somewhat dissolved resulting in some degree of disorientation but also involves the possibility of new perspectives.  Turner posits, that if “liminality is regarded as a time and place of withdrawal from normal modes of social action, it potentially can be seen as a period of scrutiny for central values and axioms of the culture where it occurs”. (Turner V. 1969. p. 156) As Szakolczai states in such situations, “the very structure of society is temporarily suspended”. (Szakolczai A. 2009. p. 142) Homas states that according to Turner liminality eventually dissolves because as a state of huge intensity it cannot exist for very long if no structure exists to stabilize it. Either that structure is developed in what Turner called “normative communitas” or the participant returns to their surrounding social structure.

I thought I was just going to Paris. 

            For me, my pilgrimage defined as a journey made for sentimental reasons focuses on Paris, France. In three days time I will be 40 years old, a mile stone, and a rite of passage. Ten years ago, for my 30th birthday I was in Australia and to mark the event I travelled to Sydney and with the aim of experiencing something new I went to a symphony at the Sydney opera House. This year I am having dinner, with Caroline at the Eiffel Tower. 

My goal was to achieve something more than a new experience to mark the occasion, it was to also escape from my surroundings, to be in a city of strangers where my birthday would slip by relatively unnoticed, where I would not be the centre of attention and not be made to feel forty.

I feel that my desire to get away has a subconscious relationship to Van Gennap and Turner’s discourse on the rites of passage. Caroline has organised everything fulfilling the role of Master of Ceremony, the animals are sorted out and my sister has kindly offered to drive us to the pick up point. (Fig 1) Everybody seems to know what to do and I am grateful. Potentially it is a time to reflect and scrutinize opening myself up to the possibility of new perspectives.



           Fig 2 M King “Imdugud, Down End, Croyde” March 2012

 Sunday 11th march 2012

Soft, silky waves peeled along the sandbank somewhere around Down End I say somewhere because I was surrounded by a heavy mist. (Fig 2) I felt as though I were paddling through Acheron, the Greek “river of woe”. With no site of the beach, the rocks or any other point of reference it was disorientating. Occasionally someone else riding some form of wave craft appeared out of the dense mist. They were few and far between. There was no wind and the only sound was the waves breaking on the shore. If I was sat out the back it was only because no waves broke beyond where I sat. How far out I was sitting was a mystery until a wave rolled in.

When I got out of the sea and walked up the beach I walked out of the mist into bright sunshine. I felt as though I had crossed my first threshold.

Tonight I leave for Paris, France. It will be more than a week before I get back into the sea. I will be 40.  

Monday 12th March 2012

           Fig 3 M King “Coach Ride” March 2012

I’m sat in one of those liminal spaces, the lounge at the Eurostar waiting to board the train, prior to that it was the coach journey from Somerset into London, followed by a tube ride to St Pancras station. (Fig 3 and 4) Divorced from my normal social structures the spaces float past like the humdrum, monotonous rhythmic clatter of a train ride. People wander past at varying speeds wheeling their cases about them, a hub of transition. Moving, waiting, moving, waiting and so the chain continues in a linear, centripetal motion towards the capital city of Paris.

 Fig 4 M King “Tube Ride” March 2012 

The thing about places of transition is the repetitive nature of everything. The lounge feels like a dead space, a dead zone. I’m living in a Hopper painting. (Fig 5)

Fig 5 M King “Eurostar Lounge, St Pancras Station, London” March 2012 

              A new experience today suitcases with castors that spin 360 degrees allowing me to move my case gracefully about me, a dance around the stations and lounges of my journey, simple things.

As I board the train I am conscious yet again of the work of Hamish Fulton and his notion that the experience of a walk or in my case this journey cannot be conveyed in a photograph. All you can convey is a state of mind. My senses are on overdrive trying to take it all in, trying to record and convey my journey in terms of van Gennap and Turner’s discourse on rites of passage. Yet whilst I am seeing the countryside drift past, looking down the aisle of the train, listening to the conversations about me, smelling the air, tasting the cool refreshing beer, feeling every surface I touch (and often thinking I need to sanitise my hands) I think how can I convey all this. I soon come to realise that if I continue with this pressure I will forget to relax and simply enjoy the experience. What matters is now the rest can be left to memory.

As you move through the English countryside from London towards the channel tunnel you go through a rather industrial landscape. As we enter the tunnel babies simultaneously start crying throughout the carriage. I guess it’s the pressure but flying out of the tunnel into France it feels peaceful. It is still overcast and the light is flat but you experience a different landscape of open fields and agriculture. However, the smooth ride from London has been replaced by a bumpy transition. It seems our engineering is still among the best.        

Eventually we settle into the hotel and stretch our legs. Being in the Latin Quarter means we are within walking distance to almost wherever and so I begin to experience the magnificence of Paris. Notre Dame at night is amazing yet I am at a loss as to be able to convey this. Its grandeur is felt within. All my sense comes alive. Yet I am also feeling weary and nervous. (Fig 6)

      Fig 6 M King “Notre Dame, Paris” March 2012 
 Tuesday 13th March 2012

I know I cannot convey my experience even Caroline sat next to me cannot feel what I am feeling or read my thoughts. The sun is shining, the sky is blue and we are sat on the steps of the Sacré-CÅ“ur Basilica, the Basilica of the Sacred Heart of Paris. People surround us tourists and Parisians. (Fig 7 and 8)  Not everyone is here for the view some are here to make money, to hassle. These experiences negate my feelings towards Paris but I have to except it, to be tolerant. However, moments up until this point today have affected my mood. If we haven’t been ripped off in the street by people finding gold rings or donating to the deaf and dumb then the price of a coffee, a “grande” beer or a” jambon baguette” have made me feel fed up. (Fig 9) Maybe this refers to Thomassen’s form of pain. These negative experiences stick with you, at least with me in what seems to be a balance between light and dark, yin and yang. Learn to except them and move on.

       Fig 7 M King “Sacré-CÅ“ur Basilica, Paris” March 2012 

      Fig 8 M King “View from the Sacré-CÅ“ur Basilica, Paris” March 2012        

      Fig 9 M King "Le Grande Bierre” March 2012

Wednesday 14th March 2012 – My Birthday

            Today I am 40 years old. Paris is amazing. The architecture and the layout are truly spectacular. However, I always seem to be coming back to Fulton and the understanding that the experience cannot be conveyed through the photograph. Only a state of mind can be conveyed which I believe is true, yesterday was evident of that. One of the prevailing experiences of yesterday was that my feet ached which detracts from the whole day. I am also beginning to understand what Turner means when stating the liminality eventually dissolves due to its intensity. Yet within the time and space of now I want to experience as much as possible despite the negative feelings of the moment.

            The only way to experience walking up to the Louvre, through the gardens to the Jau de Paume, seeing the Eiffel Tower for the first time in the distance through the city haze amongst the splendor of the Arc de Triomphe, the Grand Palais or the Place de la Concorde is to visit. (Fig 10 and 11) Yet it is more than just experiencing these sites it is as Krause, van Gennap and Turner posit a pilgrimage, a spiritual and physical journey which mark and celebrate a passage through the cycle of life.

    Fig 10 M King “View to the Eiffel Tower, Paris” March 2012

     Fig 11 M King “View to the Arc de Triomphe, Paris” March 2012           

                          I had a dream last night relating to a visit the previous day to an exhibition by the architect, sculptor, photographer, blogger, Twitterer, interview artist and political activist, Ai Weiwei. The dream concerned a picture I had made of him entitled, I believe “(Mis)-appropriated pictures of Ai Weiwei”. In the dream Weiwei challenged me wanting to charge me for using his name in the image so I said does that mean you pay so much towards the Han Dynasty for using their name in an image. (Fig 12) What this means I have no idea but of all the images within the exhibition this series stood out. He seems disaffected in his reaction to dropping the Han Dynasty urn but I disagree. His toes on is right foot seem to convey a moment of feeling that conflicts with the appearance of detachment that his face conveys.

            Maybe the dream relates to the fact that I did take some covert photographs and Caroline who wanted to take a picture of me listening to some dialogue through headphones got told off. She was also told off for touching a picture which at the time made my stomach tighten with despair but shortly afterwards made me laugh.

      Fig 12 M King “(Mis)-appropriated pictures of Ai Weiwei, Jau de Paume, Paris” March 2012
                       
           
            The over-riding experiences of today have been dinner at the Eiffel Tower (reinforced by the fact that we had to pay an extra 10 Euros for the lift up to the restaurant), the Catacombes de Paris and lunch at the Galeries Lafayette with the dust of death on my boots. 
 
 
                                                      Fig 13 M King “Eiffel Tower, Paris” March 2012 

 
                               Fig 14-18 M King and C Hooper “58 Tour Eiffel, Paris” March 2012

                       Fig 15
                          
  
                       Fig 16 

                       Fig 17                                                                                        
     Fig 18

     Fig 19 M King “Catacombes de Paris" March 2012
     Fig 20 Hooper "Lunch at Galeries Lafayette” March 2012  

Saturday 17th March 2012

            Home.

If I could take one effecting memory away from this disorientating, culturally intense journey it would be the painting by Paul Delaroche “The Execution of Lady Jane Grey” (1833). Seeing this painting in the Louvre was extraordinary. Its affect did not necessarily transgress onto Caroline but I guess that sums up the whole journey. Everyone’s experience is unique and personal.
           
            I have passed through the metaphorical threshold of my thirties into my forties and when I write that I feel…something. I cannot think of it as being old but the transition was not as difficult as ten years ago when I felt very self-analytical and depressed.

       Fig 21 C Hooper “Portrait of Mark King, Paris” March 2012 

            As for my re-incorporation back into society I had a cup of tea with my sister and her family and later with my mum to chat about our holiday for the rest I’m hoping that I have been gone long enough so that I can just slip back into life as if nothing has happened. Whilst everything has changed, everything remains the same.

            Throughout Paris as with home and other places I have visited there seems to be this dichotomy between the past and the present, the landscape and our indexical footprint on it. Life (Fig22-40)

       Fig 22 M King “Musee du Louvre, Paris” March 2012

           Fig 23 M King “Saint-Michel, Paris” March 2012

                           Fig 24 “Bridge, Paris” March 2012
         Fig 25 M King “View from Bridge, Seine, Paris” March 2012

                    Fig 26 M King “View from Bridge, Seine, Paris”         Fig 27 M King “Queue, Catacombes de Paris" 
                    March 2012                                                March 2012

                             Fig 28 M King “View to Palais du Luxembourg” March 2012

  
                                                                 Fig 29 “Catacombes de Paris” March 2012 
                                                                 Fig 30 M King " Catacombes de Paris" March 2012 
                                          
     Fig 31 M King " Catacombes de Paris" March 2012
  
                  Fig 32 M King "View from Bridge" March 2012                Fig 33 M King “Rue de la Colombe, Paris” March 2012 
              
      Fig 34 M King “View to Notre Dame, Paris” March 2012
                     Fig 35 M King “Bridge” March 2012                            Fig 36 M King “Seine, Paris” March 2012 
                                        
                          Fig 37 M King “Bridge, Paris” March 2012 

     Fig 38 M King “Musee du Louvre, Paris” March 2012            
     Fig 39 M King “Eruostar, France” March 2012

                   Fig 40 M King “Musee du Louvre, Paris” March 2012

BIBLIOGRAPHY
Homas P, 1979 Jung in Context London
Horvath A, Thomassen B, and Wydra H, 2009 Introduction: Liminality and Cultures of Change (International Political Anthropology
Perlmutter D and Koppman D, 1999 Reclaiming The Spiritual in Art: Contemporary Cross-cultural Perspectives Albany: University NY Press
Szakolczai A, 2009 Liminality and Experience: Structuring transitory situations and transformative events International Political Anthropology
Thomassen B, 2006 The Encyclopedia of Social Theory London
Turner V, 1967 The Forest of Symbols Ithaca, NY: Cornell University Press
Turner V, 1969 The Ritual Process Penguin 1969

All images copyright to Mark King