Sunday, 23rd
September, 2012
Easkey, Sligo
Wow…what a morning!
First in on the left on the
best day yet. The waves were a lovely 3’ but steadily increased, along with the
crowds. After a few lovely waves I soon became under-gunned, or rather felt I
had. The nerves were kicking in. as the size of the waves increased so did the
wind. It was off-shore but fairly strong.
I have to say after a couple
nailings, hitting the bottom and falling off a few times I got a bit anxious,
apprehensive of being caught inside. That knocks your confidence and what
starts out as a fantastic surf can quickly turn around, 6’ Easkey is my new
barrier to break through.
The light first thing this
morning was ephemeral. It’s an experience felt within the context of your
surroundings. With only yourself and one other in the ocean it is a calm and
reflective time. With the crowds comes tension.
The ocean had a black quality
that also held a divine beauty. A translucent black revealed the secrets of the
seabed, rocks and seaweed could be seen through the soft, silky water. The
surface was sheen, a soft gloss. As a wave broke white foam glowed in the early
morning light. I thought of that traditional Irish drink, Guinness. It’s as
though the brew also gets its earthen colour through the ancient peat bogs that
filter water down into the ocean.
Today it is my mum’s
birthday, Happy Birthday Mum. X
Thoughts of my mum lead to
thoughts of my dad. It’s a path that scares me because I miss him so much.
After watching the right for some time I came back up to check out the
left. I was amazed, angered and disappointed at the seen/scene. Beer cans were
strewn around the castle overlooking the break. The weekend, the weather and
the waves have brought the crowds, the hassles in the water and the rubbish.
Surfers the hit the coast, surf and leave. I don’t care if you’re Irish,
English, German, French, Spanish, or whatever, you’re a human being and you are
a cunt and your friends are cunts. (Sorry for using the c word but it is the
only word that sums up my anger and disappointment at seeing this crap.) You
don’t deserve to live and you certainly don’t deserve to be out in the ocean.
Pick up your shit and leave this place as you found it. As well as
disrespecting the local area and population you give us all a bad name whether
a blow-in, a traveller, a surfer or a holiday maker. I don’t understand this
mentality.
Have I picked it up, no but I
guess I will. I’m not your fucking mother so take responsibility for your own
shit.
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Copyright Mark King 2012
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