Sunday 25 January 2015

1. To Fat To Fight


Nice Daps Them New Shoes

Today I began to fight back....again. Exercise seems to come in fits and starts with me and after 18 months of not running I'm back out. Training and competing in the North Devon Marathon took its toll and took the "fun" out of the run. This and the lack of surfing recently during our trip to Australia spurred my motivation forwards. There is only so much I can blame on the surf or since we have been back, the weather. So it's time to address the weakest point in my surfing, me.

In a little over a month I'll be 43...43! After pondering that for a second I got back to thinking about my surfing. Age, fitness and my surfing ability has got me wondering lately on whether I should surf a board relevant to my body or change my body to suit my board. I went for the latter. I'm not ready to give up, buy a mini-mal and ride Saunton. There's nothing wrong with this but I want to challenge myself even if this ends up having a crap surf.

A few days ago I paddled out to the point. I struggled to paddle around on to the peak. It was an endless paddle against the rip and I always seemed to be just off. Before long I was knackered. Self-humility got me. I turned around and paddled on to the beach. If I wasn't tired enough, I was by the time I got to Downend. With a swell increasing in size I was beat. I caught two waves and got out. I picked up a piece of rubbish on my way up the beach and walked home. Once again I thought to myself I need to sort this out. I need to work on my strength, my stamina, my endurance, my flexibility...my surfing. 

I nearly went to Yoga on Friday but I didn't.

It's amazing how a new pair of shoes can get you motivated to move away from thinking about running to running.  Long may it continue...although it probably won't...






Monday 5 January 2015

15. Trigg-o-nometry


Tuesday, 6th January, 2015

Yallingup, WA

Three Bears is up the road and I feel like Goldilocks. That wave is backing off. That wave is closing out. Where is that perfect wave?