Tuesday 20 March 2012

....You Look Like A Monkey and You Smell Like One Too



Paris My 40th Birthday


In her essay Mickey, Minnie and Mecca; Destination Disney World, Pilgrimage in the Twentieth Century Cher Krause Knight declared that all pilgrimages, whether secular or ecclesiastical share the basic component of a journey, that of achieving a specific goal. Always spiritual and usually physical most pilgrimages are said to be centripetal, a journey that tends to move towards a centre. Such a notion Knight states conforms to French ethnographer and folklorist Arnold van Gennap’s (1873-1957) tripartite model concerning the rites of passage; separation from the home community, transition or liminality, and reincorporation into society. For Knight Walt Disney World, a place where “time and space are collapsed in eternal, freeze-dried (much like Walt Disney is reputed to be himself) images of American culture” should be included among the secular pilgrimages of the twentieth century. Other sites include Lenin’s tomb, the Vietnam War Memorial and Elvis Presley’s Graceland.  

      Fig 1 M King “Caroline, Master of Ceremonies, Paris” March 2012  

The term liminal derives from a Latin word meaning “a threshold”. Liminality refers to a conscious or unconscious psychological, neurological or metaphysical subjective state, of being on the “threshold” of or between two different existential planes, as defined in neurological psychology, as a liminal state and through the anthropological theories of ritual by van Gennap and British cultural anthropologist Victor Turner (1920-83).

Developed by van Gennap and later by the Turner, the term liminality is used to “refer to in-between situations and conditions that are characterized by the dislocation of established structures, the reversal of hierarchies, and uncertainty regarding the continuity of tradition and future outcomes”. (Horvath et al, 2009)

In 1909 van Gennap published his Rites de Passage, a work that is considered essential to the development of his concept relating to liminality in the context of rituals in small scale societies. In identifying various categories of rites van Gennap distinguished between those that signify transitions in the passage of time and those that result in a change of status. Van Gennap placed a particular emphasis on rites of passage and claimed that “such rituals marking, helping, or celebrating individual or collective passages through the cycle of life or of nature exist in every culture, and share a specific three-fold sequential structure”. (Szakolczai A, 2009 p. 141)

Van Gennap’s three fold structure consisted of
·        Pre-liminal rites (or rites of separation)
·        Liminal rites (or transition rites)
·        Postliminal rites (or rites of incorporation)

Pre-liminal Rites
The initial stage of pre-liminal rites or rites of separation involves a metaphorical “death”. The participant is forced to leave something behind by breaking with previous routines and practices.

Liminal Rites
 These rites involve the creation of a tabula rasa, a blank state, through the removal of limits and forms which were previously taken for granted. These rites consist of two essential characteristics.
·        The rite must abide by an arranged sequence, where everybody knows what they are to do and how.
·        Everything must be done under the authority of a master of ceremonies.

The destructive nature of this rite allows for considerable changes to be made to the
participant’s identity. This is the stage where transition takes place implying a passing through the threshold that distinguishes between two phases which is characterized by the term liminality.

Post-liminal Rites
During this stage the participant is re-incorporated back into society with a new identity, in affect they are a new being. Van Gennap believed his tripartite sequence; inherent in all ritual passages was one of universality.

An anthropological ritual, especially a rite of passage such as my 40th birthday was said
by Turner to involve some change to my self. In the first phase, that of separation, some kind of symbolic behavior signifies my detachment from an earlier fixed point within my social structure. My status becomes liminal and through this situation I live outside my normal environment, questioning my self and “the existing social order through a series of rituals that often involve acts of pain: the initiants come to feel nameless, spatio-temporally dislocated and socially unstructured”. These liminal periods are deemed both destructive and constructive meaning that “the formative experiences during liminality will prepare the initiand (and his/her cohort) to occupy a new social role or status, made public during the reintegration rituals”. (Thomassen B, 2006 p. 322)

Through his work Turner became more aware that liminality “...served not only to
identify the importance of in-between periods, but also to understand the human reactions to liminal experiences: the way liminality shaped personality, the sudden foregrounding of agency, and the sometimes dramatic tying together of thought and experience”. (Thomassen B, 2006 p. 322)  

                       Turner believed the qualities of liminality are necessarily ambiguous and through such rituals as the rites of passage, the participant’s sense of identity becomes somewhat dissolved resulting in some degree of disorientation but also involves the possibility of new perspectives.  Turner posits, that if “liminality is regarded as a time and place of withdrawal from normal modes of social action, it potentially can be seen as a period of scrutiny for central values and axioms of the culture where it occurs”. (Turner V. 1969. p. 156) As Szakolczai states in such situations, “the very structure of society is temporarily suspended”. (Szakolczai A. 2009. p. 142) Homas states that according to Turner liminality eventually dissolves because as a state of huge intensity it cannot exist for very long if no structure exists to stabilize it. Either that structure is developed in what Turner called “normative communitas” or the participant returns to their surrounding social structure.

I thought I was just going to Paris

            For me, my pilgrimage defined as a journey made for sentimental reasons focuses on Paris, France. In three days time I will be 40 years old, a mile stone, and a rite of passage. Ten years ago, for my 30th birthday I was in Australia and to mark the event I travelled to Sydney and with the aim of experiencing something new I went to a symphony at the Sydney opera House. This year I am having dinner, with Caroline at the Eiffel Tower

My goal was to achieve something more than a new experience to mark the occasion, it was to also escape from my surroundings, to be in a city of strangers where my birthday would slip by relatively unnoticed, where I would not be the centre of attention and not be made to feel forty.

I feel that my desire to get away has a subconscious relationship to Van Gennap and Turner’s discourse on the rites of passage. Caroline has organised everything fulfilling the role of Master of Ceremony, the animals are sorted out and my sister has kindly offered to drive us to the pick up point. (Fig 1) Everybody seems to know what to do and I am grateful. Potentially it is a time to reflect and scrutinize opening myself up to the possibility of new perspectives.



           Fig 2 M King “Imdugud, Down End, Croyde” March 2012

 Sunday 11th march 2012

Soft, silky waves peeled along the sandbank somewhere around Down End I say somewhere because I was surrounded by a heavy mist. (Fig 2) I felt as though I were paddling through Acheron, the Greek “river of woe”. With no site of the beach, the rocks or any other point of reference it was disorientating. Occasionally someone else riding some form of wave craft appeared out of the dense mist. They were few and far between. There was no wind and the only sound was the waves breaking on the shore. If I was sat out the back it was only because no waves broke beyond where I sat. How far out I was sitting was a mystery until a wave rolled in.

When I got out of the sea and walked up the beach I walked out of the mist into bright sunshine. I felt as though I had crossed my first threshold.

Tonight I leave for Paris, France. It will be more than a week before I get back into the sea. I will be 40.  

Monday 12th March 2012

           Fig 3 M King “Coach Ride” March 2012

I’m sat in one of those liminal spaces, the lounge at the Eurostar waiting to board the train, prior to that it was the coach journey from Somerset into London, followed by a tube ride to St Pancras station. (Fig 3 and 4) Divorced from my normal social structures the spaces float past like the humdrum, monotonous rhythmic clatter of a train ride. People wander past at varying speeds wheeling their cases about them, a hub of transition. Moving, waiting, moving, waiting and so the chain continues in a linear, centripetal motion towards the capital city of Paris.

 Fig 4 M King “Tube Ride” March 2012 

The thing about places of transition is the repetitive nature of everything. The lounge feels like a dead space, a dead zone. I’m living in a Hopper painting. (Fig 5)

Fig 5 M King “Eurostar Lounge, St Pancras Station, London” March 2012 

              A new experience today suitcases with castors that spin 360 degrees allowing me to move my case gracefully about me, a dance around the stations and lounges of my journey, simple things.

As I board the train I am conscious yet again of the work of Hamish Fulton and his notion that the experience of a walk or in my case this journey cannot be conveyed in a photograph. All you can convey is a state of mind. My senses are on overdrive trying to take it all in, trying to record and convey my journey in terms of van Gennap and Turner’s discourse on rites of passage. Yet whilst I am seeing the countryside drift past, looking down the aisle of the train, listening to the conversations about me, smelling the air, tasting the cool refreshing beer, feeling every surface I touch (and often thinking I need to sanitise my hands) I think how can I convey all this. I soon come to realise that if I continue with this pressure I will forget to relax and simply enjoy the experience. What matters is now the rest can be left to memory.

As you move through the English countryside from London towards the channel tunnel you go through a rather industrial landscape. As we enter the tunnel babies simultaneously start crying throughout the carriage. I guess it’s the pressure but flying out of the tunnel into France it feels peaceful. It is still overcast and the light is flat but you experience a different landscape of open fields and agriculture. However, the smooth ride from London has been replaced by a bumpy transition. It seems our engineering is still among the best.        

Eventually we settle into the hotel and stretch our legs. Being in the Latin Quarter means we are within walking distance to almost wherever and so I begin to experience the magnificence of Paris. Notre Dame at night is amazing yet I am at a loss as to be able to convey this. Its grandeur is felt within. All my sense comes alive. Yet I am also feeling weary and nervous. (Fig 6)

      Fig 6 M King “Notre Dame, Paris” March 2012 
 Tuesday 13th March 2012

I know I cannot convey my experience even Caroline sat next to me cannot feel what I am feeling or read my thoughts. The sun is shining, the sky is blue and we are sat on the steps of the Sacré-Cœur Basilica, the Basilica of the Sacred Heart of Paris. People surround us tourists and Parisians. (Fig 7 and 8)  Not everyone is here for the view some are here to make money, to hassle. These experiences negate my feelings towards Paris but I have to except it, to be tolerant. However, moments up until this point today have affected my mood. If we haven’t been ripped off in the street by people finding gold rings or donating to the deaf and dumb then the price of a coffee, a “grande” beer or a” jambon baguette” have made me feel fed up. (Fig 9) Maybe this refers to Thomassen’s form of pain. These negative experiences stick with you, at least with me in what seems to be a balance between light and dark, yin and yang. Learn to except them and move on.

       Fig 7 M King “Sacré-Cœur Basilica, Paris” March 2012 

      Fig 8 M King “View from the Sacré-Cœur Basilica, Paris” March 2012        

      Fig 9 M King "Le Grande Bierre” March 2012

Wednesday 14th March 2012 – My Birthday

            Today I am 40 years old. Paris is amazing. The architecture and the layout are truly spectacular. However, I always seem to be coming back to Fulton and the understanding that the experience cannot be conveyed through the photograph. Only a state of mind can be conveyed which I believe is true, yesterday was evident of that. One of the prevailing experiences of yesterday was that my feet ached which detracts from the whole day. I am also beginning to understand what Turner means when stating the liminality eventually dissolves due to its intensity. Yet within the time and space of now I want to experience as much as possible despite the negative feelings of the moment.

            The only way to experience walking up to the Louvre, through the gardens to the Jau de Paume, seeing the Eiffel Tower for the first time in the distance through the city haze amongst the splendor of the Arc de Triomphe, the Grand Palais or the Place de la Concorde is to visit. (Fig 10 and 11) Yet it is more than just experiencing these sites it is as Krause, van Gennap and Turner posit a pilgrimage, a spiritual and physical journey which mark and celebrate a passage through the cycle of life.

    Fig 10 M King “View to the Eiffel TowerParis” March 2012

     Fig 11 M King “View to the Arc de Triomphe, Paris” March 2012           

                          I had a dream last night relating to a visit the previous day to an exhibition by the architect, sculptor, photographer, blogger, Twitterer, interview artist and political activist, Ai Weiwei. The dream concerned a picture I had made of him entitled, I believe “(Mis)-appropriated pictures of Ai Weiwei”. In the dream Weiwei challenged me wanting to charge me for using his name in the image so I said does that mean you pay so much towards the Han Dynasty for using their name in an image. (Fig 12) What this means I have no idea but of all the images within the exhibition this series stood out. He seems disaffected in his reaction to dropping the Han Dynasty urn but I disagree. His toes on is right foot seem to convey a moment of feeling that conflicts with the appearance of detachment that his face conveys.

            Maybe the dream relates to the fact that I did take some covert photographs and Caroline who wanted to take a picture of me listening to some dialogue through headphones got told off. She was also told off for touching a picture which at the time made my stomach tighten with despair but shortly afterwards made me laugh.

      Fig 12 M King “(Mis)-appropriated pictures of Ai Weiwei, Jau de Paume, Paris” March 2012
                       
           
            The over-riding experiences of today have been dinner at the Eiffel Tower (reinforced by the fact that we had to pay an extra 10 Euros for the lift up to the restaurant), the Catacombes de Paris and lunch at the Galeries Lafayette with the dust of death on my boots. 
 
 
                                                      Fig 13 M King “Eiffel TowerParis” March 2012 

 
                               Fig 14-18 M King and C Hooper “58 Tour Eiffel, Paris” March 2012

                       Fig 15
                          
  
                       Fig 16 

                       Fig 17                                                                                        
     Fig 18

     Fig 19 M King “Catacombes de Paris" March 2012
     Fig 20 Hooper "Lunch at Galeries Lafayette” March 2012  

Saturday 17th March 2012

            Home.

If I could take one effecting memory away from this disorientating, culturally intense journey it would be the painting by Paul Delaroche “The Execution of Lady Jane Grey(1833). Seeing this painting in the Louvre was extraordinary. Its affect did not necessarily transgress onto Caroline but I guess that sums up the whole journey. Everyone’s experience is unique and personal.
           
            I have passed through the metaphorical threshold of my thirties into my forties and when I write that I feel…something. I cannot think of it as being old but the transition was not as difficult as ten years ago when I felt very self-analytical and depressed.

       Fig 21 C Hooper “Portrait of Mark King, Paris” March 2012 

            As for my re-incorporation back into society I had a cup of tea with my sister and her family and later with my mum to chat about our holiday for the rest I’m hoping that I have been gone long enough so that I can just slip back into life as if nothing has happened. Whilst everything has changed, everything remains the same.

            Throughout Paris as with home and other places I have visited there seems to be this dichotomy between the past and the present, the landscape and our indexical footprint on it. Life (Fig22-40)

       Fig 22 M King “Musee du Louvre, Paris” March 2012

           Fig 23 M King “Saint-Michel, Paris” March 2012

                           Fig 24 “Bridge, Paris” March 2012
         Fig 25 M King “View from Bridge, Seine, Paris” March 2012

                    Fig 26 M King “View from Bridge, Seine, Paris”         Fig 27 M King “Queue, Catacombes de Paris" 
                    March 2012                                                March 2012

                             Fig 28 M King “View to Palais du Luxembourg” March 2012

  
                                                                 Fig 29 “Catacombes de Paris” March 2012 
                                                                 Fig 30 M King " Catacombes de Paris" March 2012 
                                          
     Fig 31 M King " Catacombes de Paris" March 2012
  
                  Fig 32 M King "View from Bridge" March 2012                Fig 33 M King “Rue de la Colombe, Paris” March 2012 
              
      Fig 34 M King “View to Notre Dame, Paris” March 2012
                     Fig 35 M King “Bridge” March 2012                            Fig 36 M King “Seine, Paris” March 2012 
                                        
                          Fig 37 M King “Bridge, Paris” March 2012 

     Fig 38 M King “Musee du Louvre, Paris” March 2012            
     Fig 39 M King “Eruostar, France” March 2012

                   Fig 40 M King “Musee du Louvre, Paris” March 2012

BIBLIOGRAPHY
Homas P, 1979 Jung in Context London
Horvath A, Thomassen B, and Wydra H, 2009 Introduction: Liminality and Cultures of Change (International Political Anthropology
Perlmutter D and Koppman D, 1999 Reclaiming The Spiritual in Art: Contemporary Cross-cultural Perspectives Albany: University NY Press
Szakolczai A, 2009 Liminality and Experience: Structuring transitory situations and transformative events International Political Anthropology
Thomassen B, 2006 The Encyclopedia of Social Theory London
Turner V, 1967 The Forest of Symbols Ithaca, NY: Cornell University Press
Turner V, 1969 The Ritual Process Penguin 1969

All images copyright to Mark King

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