11. Trigg-o-nometry

Wednesday, 17th December, 2014

Hillarys, Perth, WA

Surfing.......sometimes it's quite depressing, frustrating and just ahhhhhh!

After a few days in the sea I'm finally, sort of, comfortable with the fact that there are sharks about. 

It's the surfers that are the problem or rather my own surfing. The trouble with paddling out to a point is that the take off zone is limited, the waves are few and the crowds, especially in a city break during the summer/Christmas holidays are quite big. Not to mention that everyone seems to rip, even the mini-groms. 

As with every break there is a pecking order and Trigg is no different. There seems to be a core of more mature surfers that hold the top table. Everyone else takes the crumbs that are left. Amongst these mere mortals I sit, respectful of the order whilst longing to get up there and catch a few backhand peelers.

If I was of a more forceful nature I would sit up there and wait my turn. I could even sit inside and pick off a few smaller ones. It's only been head high or so but it's a quick take off which is fast, and at times hollow. The wave sections too which is where everyone else sits, peppered along the reef in ever shallower sections that for the most part close out. Or that's what I seem to catch.

Confidence is key. My confidence is weakened by crowds anyhow. I hate hassling for waves. It doesn't help when you nearly spear one of those sitting at the top table. In times it would have been, "Off with his head..." but hey ho. We all fall off, especially when trying to surf to new wave. 

I know what I need to do. Get on it early and by early I mean up at 4, cycle down and paddle out before every other gets out there. I'm down there at 6 anyway but this is Australia, so it's super crowded early doors. The only trouble with super early is the threat of them damn sharks.